The Carolina cocktail crochet dress is the biggest and most complicated project I have done. Unfortunately, it has taken me a while to pluck up the courage to write about this crochet creation as it was complicated, tricky and time consuming, but boy am I proud of the result.
In this blog, I’ll talk you through the process. Be warned, expect multiple complex(ish) stitches and swearing. I made this dress to wear at a good friends wedding as I wanted something unique and had lots of Drops Paris Yarn in Rust to use up.
This pattern is in US terminology to match the stitch diagrams.
The inspiration
I considered doing a wrap style dress which is saw via Shop Daisy and Dime, but then decided on a simple V-neck which required two long rectangles, folded in half. I loved the look of thie Antheia dress by LaCrochetterie, too and the beautiful sweeping drapes, too.
Also, I wanted to final piece to hug the body nicely. So, working from the waist down, the main body would have subtle increases at the hips, then change stitch to a mermaid style finish at the shin to create a nice floaty effect at the bottom.
So, here is the initial sketch (apologies this image is in UK terms so replace anything with treble with DOUBLE) 🤪
Important tips
- This is not a begginner friendly pattern – you have been warned.
- Please do a test with each stitch to practice and find out how many stitches you will need to create a 5X5cm square. This will help you get the right fit and avoid having to frog and re-do.
- Tension is normal throughout.
- This pattern is made to measure.
- Optional: depending how tight you would like the dress, you should crochet with a negative ease. This means you subtract 2-5cms from your final measurement. We do this as crochet can stretch over time, especially something this heavy using a 10ply yarn.
- You can swap yarn weight and use a smaller hook than recommended if you prefer something more lightweight, I was using up what I had on hand.
- Optional: when you reach the bottom where the zip goes (approx. where you start the wattle stitch increases), you can swap to working in the round. In hindsight, I wish I had done this to avoid a noticeable line after joining.
Breakdown of stitches used
The dress consists of 3 different panels and 5 different stitches.
X2 shoulder panels. Then 1 main body is worked down as a flat piece and sewn together with a zip at the top. The 2 shoulders are attached at the end.
Unfortunately, I do not have time to provide detailed written instructions, but I have been able to find diagrams and some other crafters instructions I can refer you to for each type of advanced stitch.
- Shoulders: 1 row of foundation half double (or chain foundation, +2 to start new row, then 1 row of half double). Thistle stitches to finish. X2 for each shoulder. Worked flat.
Waist band: 1 row of foundation half double (or chain foundation, +2 to start new row, then 1 row of half double). Then, alternate [1 double, with 1 chain, skip]. Repeat [1 double, 1 chain, skip] on next row. Worked flat.
- Main body: Wattle stitch. Worked flat.
- Below knee: 1 row of half double. Alternate 1 double post, with 1 chain. Repeat 1 double, 1 chain on next row. Worked flat. Open lace shell stitch (also known as the Shell Trellis Stitch). Half double boarder along to finish.
Instructions: *** US TERMS ***
Materials:
- 800G 10ply YARN (Drops Paris yarn I used about 16 balls of 50g)
- 4MM HOOK
- MEASURING TAPE
- 10CM ZIP
- BUTTON (optional)
- NEEDLE AND THREAD TO ATTACH
- FABRIC IN NUDE COLOUR TO COVER BREASTS (optional incase there are any gaps)
- SCISSORS
| SHOULDERS X2 = | ||
| R.1 | Take measurement A (shoulder to waist X2) Foundation Half Double Crochet to this length My measurement was a total of 60cm = 98FHDC | = 98 FHDC |
| R.2 | X14 Thistle Stitch (multiples of 7, +4 to build height) | = 14 THS ST |
| R.3-15 | Repeat. until the rows join under the arm Approx. 15 rows | = 14 THS ST |
| Fasten off, leave long end to weave to main body |
| MAIN BODY = | ||
| R.1 | Take measurement B (around waist) Foundation Half Double Crochet to this length My measurement was a total of 80cm = 125FHDC | = 125 FHDC |
| R.2 | CH2 (to build height), [1DC, CH1, skip] Repeat across | = 125 ST |
| R.3 | Repeat | = 125 ST |
| R.4 | HDC across | = 125 HDC |
| R.5 | X42 Wattle Stitch across | = 42 WT |
| R.6-24 | Repeat | = 42 WT |
| R.25 | Before reaching the hips, start increasing at 25% and 75% of the panel you have been working (see above pic) | = 44 WT |
| R.26-64 | Repeat wattle stitches until you reach the desired length with appropriate increases. My final row consisted of 58 Wattle Stitches. | = 58 WT |
| R.65 | HDC across | = 175 HDC |
| R.66 | CH2 (to build height), [1DC, CH1, skip] Repeat across | = 175 ST |
| R.67 | Repeat | = 175 ST |
| R.68 | HDC across | = 175 HDC |
| R.69 | X17 Open Lace Shell Stitch across | = 17 OLS |
| R.70-74 | Repeat | = 17 OLS |
| R.75 | Increase X3 evenly across at 25%, 50% and 75% of the panel | = 20 OLS |
| R.76-78 | X20 Open Lace Shell Stitch across | = 20 OLS |
| R.79 | HDC across | = 202 HDC |
| Attach the zip by sewing neatly along both back seams of the panel from R.1 to length of zip. Optional: you can add a button to the top to make extra secure. Optional: cut out bra shape cups in a nude colour fabric and sew to the inside to hide any gaps that might reveal a little too much. Sew the remaining panel together along the back seam. Lastly, wash and block the dress. |
